{"id":47906,"date":"2020-07-13T20:08:24","date_gmt":"2020-07-13T17:08:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/?p=47906"},"modified":"2020-07-13T20:08:31","modified_gmt":"2020-07-13T17:08:31","slug":"bir-deliorman-masali","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/bir-deliorman-masali\/","title":{"rendered":"Bir Deliorman masal\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>\u0130stanbul&#8217;dan yola \u00e7\u0131kacak olursan\u0131z iki \u00fc\u00e7 saat sonra Demirk\u00f6y&#8217;de yani Bulgaristan s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndas\u0131n\u0131z. Bir saat sonra da Burgaz&#8217;da. Size iki g\u00fcn i\u00e7inde uygun fiyatlarla keyifli bir Deliorman turu teklif ediyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tarihi arka plan\u0131 olan kadim \u015fehirleri tan\u0131maya hep \u00f6nce edindi\u011fim bilgilerle ba\u015flad\u0131m. Onlar hakk\u0131nda \u015fu veya bu kaynaktan edindi\u011fim bilgiler bu kez onlar\u0131, eskilerin tabiriyle bir de aynelyakin, yani gezerek tan\u0131maya y\u00f6neltti beni. \u015eumnu da b\u00f6yle, ama bilgi kayna\u011f\u0131m kitap de\u011fil, bir s\u00f6zl\u00fc kaynak. \u00d6nce bana bu bilgileri anlatan\u0131 tan\u0131tarak ba\u015flayaca\u011f\u0131m sat\u0131rlar\u0131ma. Elbette sadece \u015eumnu de\u011fil, b\u00fct\u00fcn Balkanlar\u0131 da bir anlamda i\u00e7ten tan\u0131may\u0131 ona yani bu bilgileri edindi\u011fim Osman Bey\u2019e bor\u00e7luyum. Peki kim Osman Bey? Osman K\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 1920 y\u0131l\u0131nda Deliorman b\u00f6lgesinde yer alan K\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 k\u00f6y\u00fcnde do\u011fmu\u015f. O y\u0131llarda Bulgaristan\u2019daki soyda\u015flar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n g\u00f6zde mektebi \u015eumnu\u2019daki N\u00fcvvap\u2019ta okumu\u015f. Tabii bu okuldan da k\u0131saca s\u00f6z etmek laz\u0131m; Bulgaristan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kazan\u0131nca Osmanl\u0131 y\u00f6netimi s\u0131n\u0131r \u00f6tesinde kalan T\u00fcrk ahali i\u00e7in baz\u0131 tedbirler al\u0131p bunlar\u0131 koydurtmu\u015f anla\u015fmaya. T\u00fcrk halk\u0131n\u0131n e\u011fitim imkanlar\u0131 da bunlardan biri. Bu ama\u00e7la \u00fclkenin din g\u00f6revlisi ve \u00f6\u011fretmen ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131layacak, Bulgaristan\u2019\u0131n en \u00e7ok T\u00fcrk n\u00fcfus bar\u0131nd\u0131ran merkez \u015fehri \u015eumnu\u2019da N\u00fcvvap ad\u0131yla lise ve y\u00fcksekokul niteli\u011fi ta\u015f\u0131yan bir okul kurulmu\u015f. Osman Bey buran\u0131n lise ve y\u00fcksek k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 birincilikle bitirmi\u015f. Ba\u015far\u0131s\u0131 dolay\u0131s\u0131 ile de buraya \u00f6\u011fretmen tayin edilmi\u015f. II. D\u00fcnya Harbi sonras\u0131 \u00fclkeye kom\u00fcnist parti hakim olmu\u015f. Ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7ta vadetti\u011fi halklara \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck iddias\u0131n\u0131 parti bir s\u00fcre sonra, kat\u0131 bir totaliter yap\u0131ya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f. Bu ba\u011flamda ba\u015fta N\u00fcvvap mensuplar\u0131 olmak \u00fczere rejime tabi olmayanlara y\u00f6nelik bask\u0131lar artm\u0131\u015f. Osman Bey ve bir gurup \u00f6\u011frencisi T\u00fcrkiye lehine casusluk yapmak gibi afaki bir su\u00e7la itham edilerek 1948 y\u0131l\u0131nda tutuklanm\u0131\u015f. K\u0131sa bir komedi yarg\u0131laman\u0131n ard\u0131ndan idama mahkum edilmi\u015f, \u00fc\u00e7 bu\u00e7uk y\u0131l sonra bu ceza m\u00fcebbede \u00e7evrilmi\u015f. Yakla\u015f\u0131k on be\u015f y\u0131l hapis yatt\u0131ktan sonra 1963 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130stanbul\u2019da yakalanan bir Bulgar casusu ile kendisi ve arkada\u015flar\u0131 takas edilerek T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye getirilmi\u015f. Kendisi tutukland\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u0131rada e\u015fi ve iki ya\u015f\u0131ndaki k\u0131z\u0131 \u00fclkeden \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131larak T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye g\u00f6nderilmi\u015f. Bulgaristan Ba\u015fm\u00fcft\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn torunu olan ve \u00fczerine titrenerek yeti\u015ftirilen e\u015fi Nezihe Han\u0131m, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de zor \u015fartlar alt\u0131nda hayat\u0131n\u0131 idame ettirip k\u0131z\u0131n\u0131 da \u00f6\u011fretmen okulunda okutmu\u015f. Osman Bey, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye geldi\u011finde e\u015fini ve iki ya\u015f\u0131nda ayr\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u0131z\u0131n\u0131, \u00f6\u011fretmenlik yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Haymana\u2019n\u0131n bir k\u00f6y\u00fcnde bulmu\u015f. D\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnden sonra D\u0131\u015fi\u015fleri Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131na al\u0131narak merkezde ve Belgrat B\u00fcy\u00fckel\u00e7ili\u011finde g\u00f6rev yapm\u0131\u015f. Benim Belgrat\u2019ta bulundu\u011fum y\u0131llarda burada idari ate\u015femizde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"898\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/sumnu-sehir-goruntusu.jpg?resize=640%2C898&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-47907\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/sumnu-sehir-goruntusu.jpg?w=700&amp;ssl=1 700w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/sumnu-sehir-goruntusu.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><figcaption>\u015eumnu \u015fehir g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Bu y\u0131l 100 ya\u015f\u0131nda<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Arap\u00e7a yan\u0131nda b\u00fct\u00fcn Balkan dillerini de bilen Osman Bey sayesinde Balkanlar\u0131 derinlemesine tan\u0131d\u0131m. Ailece dost olduk, hatta bir y\u0131l ayn\u0131 apartman\u0131n farkl\u0131 dairelerinde oturduk. Osman Bey bu y\u0131l 100 ya\u015f\u0131na girdi ve hala canl\u0131 bir haf\u0131za ile bildiklerini payla\u015fmaya devam ediyor. \u0130\u015fte bu canl\u0131 tarih bana o kadar \u00e7ok Deliorman, \u015eumnu, Ba\u015fm\u00fcft\u00fcl\u00fck, N\u00fcvvap, Demirbaba ve olaylar\u0131n i\u00e7inde dost d\u00fc\u015fman adam anlatt\u0131 ki art\u0131k Deliorman ve \u015eumnu\u2019yu gidip g\u00f6rmesem olmazd\u0131. Deliorman, en kestirme tarifiyle, Bulgaristan\u2019da Karadeniz ile Tuna aras\u0131nda kalan b\u00f6lgenin ad\u0131d\u0131r. Bir anlamda kalbi de \u015eumnu. Buras\u0131, Sofya\u2019y\u0131 Karadeniz\u2019e ba\u011flayan Varna yolu \u00fczerinde yer al\u0131r. Bu konum onun hem kara hem de demiryolu ula\u015f\u0131m\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00f6nemli bir aks \u00fczerinde bulunmas\u0131n\u0131, dolay\u0131s\u0131 ile \u00f6nemli bir iktisadi merkez olmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Yine bu \u00f6zelli\u011fi dolay\u0131s\u0131 ile erken d\u00f6nemde Osmanl\u0131 y\u00f6netiminin ilgisini \u00e7ekmi\u015f ve 14. y\u00fczy\u0131l sonlar\u0131nda fethedilmi\u015ftir. Fethi izleyen y\u0131llarda Anadolu\u2019dan ba\u015fta Manisa y\u00f6resi olmak \u00fczere pek \u00e7ok b\u00f6lgeden g\u00f6\u00e7lerle \u015fenlendirilmi\u015f ve \u015eumnu, b\u00fct\u00fcn \u00f6nemli Balkan \u015fehirleri gibi \u015fehir konumunu Osmanl\u0131lar zaman\u0131nda elde etmi\u015ftir. D\u00fczen, g\u00fcvenlik, disiplin ve mevzuattaki makul tutarl\u0131l\u0131k gibi Osmanl\u0131 Devleti\u2019nin sundu\u011fu imkanlar, karma\u015fa i\u00e7indeki Balkanlar\u0131n bu y\u00f6netimce fethini ve orada kal\u0131c\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flar. \u0130dari yap\u0131 fetih sonras\u0131 y\u00f6reyi cami, medrese, tekke, t\u00fcrbe, yol, k\u00f6pr\u00fc, \u00e7e\u015fme, han, hamam, \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131 gibi yap\u0131larla da donat\u0131r. Elbette bu t\u00fcr Osmanl\u0131 \u015fehirlerinde M\u00fcsl\u00fcman n\u00fcfus yan\u0131nda var olan \u00e7ok k\u00fclt\u00fcrl\u00fc tablo \u015eumnu i\u00e7in de ge\u00e7erlidir ve burada da ekseriyet M\u00fcsl\u00fcman tebaa olmakla birlikte, Bulgar, Ermeni ve Yahudi gibi farkl\u0131 din ve milliyetlere mensup bir cemaat yap\u0131s\u0131 s\u00f6z konusudur. Ama hemen belirtmek gerekir ki \u015fehri \u00e7evreleyen ve bir anlamda da besleyen civar k\u00f6yler fetihten bir s\u00fcre sonra b\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fcyle T\u00fcrk n\u00fcfustan ibaret olmu\u015ftur. Bunun Doksan\u00fc\u00e7 harbi (1877-78) \u00f6ncesi y\u00fczde 90\u2019dan fazla oldu\u011funu belirtelim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/%C5%9Fumnu-tombul-cami.jpg?resize=640%2C853&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-47908\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/%C5%9Fumnu-tombul-cami.jpg?w=700&amp;ssl=1 700w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/%C5%9Fumnu-tombul-cami.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><figcaption>Tombul Cami &#8211; \u015eumnu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Tombul Cami<\/strong><\/p><div id=\"bghab-234922526\" class=\"bghab-icerik-icine bghab-entity-placement\"><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6203283170189293\" crossorigin=\"anonymous\"><\/script><ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display:block; text-align:center;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-6203283170189293\" \ndata-ad-slot=\"7303146466\" \ndata-ad-layout=\"in-article\"\ndata-ad-format=\"fluid\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins>\n<script> \n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); \n<\/script>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>\u015eehri ilk ziyaretim 1994 y\u0131l\u0131yd\u0131. TRT ad\u0131na D\u00fcnden Bug\u00fcne Balkanlar ad\u0131yla bir belgesel \u00e7ekiyorduk. O k\u0131s\u0131tl\u0131 zaman dilimi i\u00e7inde \u015f\u00f6yle bir ku\u015f bak\u0131\u015f\u0131 tan\u0131ma imkan\u0131m oldu. Ama kitabi bilgilerimi rehberli\u011finde tamamlama imkan\u0131 elde etmem de\u011ferli dostum merhum Prof. Hakk\u0131 Acun sayesinde ger\u00e7ekle\u015fti. Bir sempozyum vesilesi ile bulundu\u011fumuz \u015eumnu\u2019da onunla ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 geziler yapt\u0131k. Halk aras\u0131ndaki ad\u0131 Tombul Cami olan \u015eerif Halil Pa\u015fa k\u00fclliyesini inceledik. Bu camiyle birlikte bir bak\u0131ma \u015eumnu\u2019nun simgesi olan N\u00fcvvab\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fck. N\u00fcvvap (1922-1946) yeti\u015ftirdi\u011fi be\u015feri sermaye sayesinde T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn sadece Bulgaristan\u2019da de\u011fil, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de de \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir merkezidir. Buradan yeti\u015fenler yazd\u0131klar\u0131 T\u00fcrk\u00e7e eserler, \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131klar\u0131 dergi ve gazeteler sayesinde k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc Bulgaristan\u2019da canl\u0131 tutmalar\u0131 yan\u0131nda, mezunlar\u0131n\u0131n pek \u00e7o\u011fu Osmanl\u0131cay\u0131 da \u00e7ok iyi bildikleri i\u00e7in T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye g\u00f6\u00e7leri sonras\u0131nda bu alana ihtiya\u00e7 duyan k\u00fct\u00fcphaneler, ar\u015fiv, n\u00fcfus ve tapu kadostro gibi resmi dairelerde \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131lar. B\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131sm\u0131 da \u00e7e\u015fitli okullarda ve Diyanet\u2019te istihdam edildi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Alimler oca\u011f\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Bir ba\u015fka \u015fekilde ifade etmek gerekirse Deliorman sadece pehlivanlar yata\u011f\u0131 de\u011fil, \u015eumnu sayesinde ayn\u0131 zamanda bilginler, sanat\u00e7\u0131lar, \u015fair ve yazarlar oca\u011f\u0131d\u0131r. Ama benim i\u00e7in as\u0131l heyecan verici \u015eumnu gezisi 10-12 Temmuz 2011 tarihinde ger\u00e7ekle\u015fti. Cumhurba\u015fkanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 olarak Bulgaristan\u2019a resmi bir gezi d\u00fczenlenecekti. Uygun bir f\u0131rsat d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr\u00fcp Beyefendi\u2019 ye Osman Bey\u2019den s\u00f6z edip m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse onun da heyet i\u00e7inde yer almas\u0131n\u0131 istirham ettim. Elbette olur dedi. Bunun \u00fczerine Osman Bey, 46 y\u0131l \u00f6nce terk etti\u011fi \u015eumnu\u2019yu, okudu\u011fu okulu, gen\u00e7lik h\u00fclyalar\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 sokaklar\u0131, evlendi\u011fi evini g\u00f6rme f\u0131rsat\u0131 elde etti. Ya\u015f\u0131 doksan\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015fti ama g\u00f6zleri \u0131\u015f\u0131l \u0131\u015f\u0131ld\u0131. Ya\u015fad\u0131klar\u0131 yan\u0131nda buralarda \u00e7ekti\u011fi zul\u00fcm de g\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fcn \u00f6n\u00fcndeydi. Bir ara e\u015fim yan\u0131na yakla\u015farak Osman Abi, eviniz neredeydi, diye sordu. Tam kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zda tek katl\u0131, art\u0131k eskimi\u015f bir binay\u0131 i\u015faret etti. Bunun \u00fczerine heyetteki foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131p resimlerini \u00e7ektirdik. Elbette \u015eumnu me\u015fum Doksan\u00fc\u00e7 Harbi sonras\u0131nda b\u00fct\u00fcn Balkan \u015fehirleri gibi zor g\u00fcnler ge\u00e7irdi. Ard\u0131ndan sil\u00fcletinde b\u00fcy\u00fck de\u011fi\u015fiklikler ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Onun M\u00fcsl\u00fcman g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc sa\u011flayan \u00e7ok de\u011ferli binlerce eser kas\u0131tl\u0131 olarak y\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131. Bu anlamda g\u00f6rd\u00fckleri en \u00e7ok Osman Bey i\u00e7in hayal k\u0131r\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131 idi ama de\u011fi\u015fmeyenler de vard\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imgz.star.com.tr\/imgsdisk\/2020\/05\/01\/burgaz-0105202015883518878bedf7d3.jpg?w=640&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Neyseki yak\u0131n kom\u015fular\u0131m\u0131zla So\u011fuk Sava\u015f d\u00f6neminin kat\u0131 ili\u015fkileri yok art\u0131k. Nitekim 1946 y\u0131l\u0131nda kapat\u0131lan N\u00fcvvab\u2019\u0131n yeniden a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131 ve tekrar c\u0131v\u0131l c\u0131v\u0131l \u00f6\u011frenci kayn\u0131yor olmas\u0131 \u00f6nemli bir kazan\u0131m. \u015eumnu\u2019ya ge\u00e7en y\u0131l bir kez daha gittim. De\u011ferli bir dostumun bir s\u00fcredir birlikte bir Balkan seyahati talebi vard\u0131. Ramazan bayram\u0131n\u0131n \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc g\u00fcn\u00fc ailelerimizle birlikte yola revan olduk. Kavlimiz \u015fu idi, bir hesap yapmayaca\u011f\u0131z, bir anlamda nerede ak\u015fam, orada sabah\u0131 yap\u0131p sonras\u0131na devam edece\u011fiz. Elbette rota ile ilgili benim kafamda bir plan mevcuttu. Demirk\u00f6y\u2019den \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Sakin bir s\u0131n\u0131r kap\u0131s\u0131, virajl\u0131 ama alt yap\u0131s\u0131 iyi yollar bizi \u00f6nce Burgaz\u2019a ula\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131. Orta b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckte bir Bulgaristan \u015fehri olan Burgaz\u2019\u0131 bir saat kadar gezip Varna\u2019ya y\u00f6neldik. Buras\u0131 Sovyetler Birli\u011fi zaman\u0131ndan beri bir tatil beldesi olarak tan\u0131n\u0131r. Hem hen\u00fcz Karadeniz\u2019de deniz sezonu a\u00e7\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f hem de bizim arad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z g\u00fczel plajlar olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in \u015fehrin \u00f6zellikle atalar\u0131m\u0131zdan kalan mimari eserlerini arad\u0131k, baz\u0131 camileri ziyaret ettik, deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki kaba sosyalist heykellerle dolu park\u0131 da gezdikten sonra yemek ihtiyac\u0131 i\u00e7in me\u015fhur Nesebar\u2019a hareket ettik. Bu sevimli yar\u0131mada \u015feklindeki deniz kasabas\u0131 eski y\u0131llara g\u00f6re epey hareketlenmi\u015f. Burada Karadeniz\u2019i seyrederek bal\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yiyip yola revan olduk. Art\u0131k ak\u015fam olmak \u00fczereydi ve hedefimizde Romanya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na yak\u0131n Bal\u00e7\u0131k kasabas\u0131na vard\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imgz.star.com.tr\/imgsdisk\/2020\/05\/01\/ag-mustafa-isen-varna-cami-010520201588351883201de3d5.jpg?w=640&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Rus\u00e7uk \u0131hlamurlar\u0131<\/strong><\/p><div id=\"bghab-257813113\" class=\"bghab-icerik-icine-10-paragraf bghab-entity-placement\"><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6203283170189293\" crossorigin=\"anonymous\"><\/script><ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display:block; text-align:center;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-6203283170189293\" \ndata-ad-slot=\"7303146466\" \ndata-ad-layout=\"in-article\"\ndata-ad-format=\"fluid\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins>\n<script> \n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); \n<\/script>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Dobruca b\u00f6lgesinin g\u00fczel yerle\u015fim noktalar\u0131ndan biri olan Bal\u00e7\u0131k da son y\u0131llarda bir turizm kasabas\u0131 haline gelmi\u015f. Yerle\u015fti\u011fimiz otelde g\u00fcn\u00fcn yorgunlu\u011funu at\u0131p sabah erken \u015fehri gezmeye karar verdik. \u0130yi bir kahvalt\u0131dan sonra k\u0131sa bir \u015fehir turuna, kasaban\u0131n camiini de kat\u0131p ard\u0131ndan Botanik park\u0131na y\u00f6neldik. Dobruca b\u00f6lgesi daha \u00f6nce Romanya\u2019n\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131 idi. Bu d\u00f6nemde Krali\u00e7e Maria burada ho\u015f bir yazl\u0131k saray yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. B\u00f6lge halk\u0131 M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlardan meydana geldi\u011fi i\u00e7in de saray\u0131n bir yan\u0131na minyat\u00fcr bir kilise, di\u011fer taraf\u0131na da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir cami kondurmu\u015f. \u00c7ok usta bir mimar\u0131n elinden \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 anla\u015f\u0131lan yap\u0131, bah\u00e7esi ile birlikte seyrine doyum olmayan bir manzaraya sahip. Saray \u015fimdi m\u00fcze, bah\u00e7e de Balkanlar\u0131n en g\u00fczel botanik park\u0131. Mutlaka ziyaret edilmeli. \u0130kinci g\u00fcn \u00f6nce atalar\u0131m\u0131n memleketi Provadi, sonra \u015eumnu. Provadi\u2019de g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz birka\u00e7 erken d\u00f6nem harap Osmanl\u0131 camii bizi \u00fczd\u00fc. Ayakta kalm\u0131\u015f birisinde Cuma k\u0131l\u0131p \u015eumnu\u2019ya ge\u00e7tik. Elbette \u00f6nce \u015eerif Ali Pa\u015fa Camii, sonra N\u00fcvvap ziyaret edildi. Bizim i\u00e7in anlaml\u0131 bu birimlerden sonra \u015fehri dola\u015fmaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Bulgaristan\u2019da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00fct\u00fcn \u015fehirlerin \u015f\u00f6yle bir karakteristi\u011fi vard\u0131r: \u015eehrin i\u00e7inde trafi\u011fe kapal\u0131, daha \u00e7ok yeme i\u00e7me mekanlar\u0131 ile tiyatro, k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezi, m\u00fcze gibi kurumlar\u0131n yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 geni\u015f caddeler. Bunlar\u0131n bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc de bol a\u011fa\u00e7l\u0131 parklar olu\u015fturur. Yine bu \u015fehirlerde \u00e7o\u011fu T\u00fcrklere kar\u015f\u0131 yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f dev ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k heykelleriyle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z. Bunlar\u0131n en karakteristiklerinden biri, \u015eumnu\u2019nun \u00fcst\u00fcndeki tepede, uzun bir merdivenle \u00e7\u0131k\u0131lan hantal, kaba ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k heykelidir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sonra ver elini Rus\u00e7uk, buras\u0131 Tuna k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda kuzeyde art\u0131k Bulgaristan\u2019\u0131n son \u015fehri. Kar\u015f\u0131 taraf Romanya. Tuna buralarda art\u0131k b\u00fct\u00fcn cesametiyle kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131zdad\u0131r. \u0130\u00e7inde a\u011f\u0131r tonajl\u0131 gemiler seyahat eder. A\u011f\u0131r ve edal\u0131 bir s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fc\u015fle Almanya\u2019dan itibaren toplad\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u00fck\u00fcn\u00fc Karadeniz\u2019e do\u011fru ta\u015f\u0131r. Eski sosyalist \u00fclkelerin bir \u00f6zelli\u011fi, yollar\u0131n etraf\u0131n\u0131, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck b\u00fcy\u00fck demeden a\u011fa\u00e7land\u0131rmalar\u0131d\u0131r. Rus\u00e7uk\u2019ta caddelerin etraf\u0131 \u0131hlamur a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131yla s\u00fcslenmi\u015f. Uzun y\u0131llar \u00f6nce ekildikleri i\u00e7in \u015fimdi dev a\u011fa\u00e7lara d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fen bu \u0131hlamurlar Haziran ay\u0131 i\u00e7inde \u00e7i\u00e7ek a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f konumdayd\u0131lar ve bizi kokulara gark ederek kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131lar, Rus\u00e7uk sokaklar\u0131nda. Ak\u015fam Razgrat\u2019a d\u00f6nd\u00fck. Razgrat, \u015eumnu ve K\u0131rcali ile birlikte Bulgaristan\u2019da en \u00e7ok T\u00fcrk n\u00fcfusun ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u00f6reler. \u00d6yle ki k\u0131rsal kesim n\u00fcfusunun yer yer y\u00fczde sekseni bu konumda. Ama \u00fcz\u00fclerek belirtelim ki yakla\u015f\u0131k elli y\u0131ll\u0131k sosyalist politikalar bu \u00fclkede amac\u0131na ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f durumda. Din sadece cenaze ve s\u00fcnnet t\u00f6renlerinden ibaret hale d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f. Di\u011fer Balkan \u00fclkelerinde, \u00f6rne\u011fin Yunanistan ya da Makedonya\u2019da, sokakta y\u00fcr\u00fcyen insanlar\u0131n beden diline baksan\u0131z onlar\u0131n dini konumlar\u0131n\u0131 tefrik edebilirsiniz. Bu Bulgaristan\u2019da m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. \u0130nsanlar mevcut sisteme kar\u015f\u0131 protest tav\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 kaybetmi\u015fler. \u015eehrin g\u00fczel park\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde yer alan banisi Makbul \u0130brahim Pa\u015fa, ustas\u0131 Mimar Sinan olan muhte\u015fem caminin g\u00f6z g\u00f6re g\u00f6re y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131p yok olmas\u0131ndan da bu y\u00fczden kimse rahats\u0131z de\u011fil. \u015eehirlerde bu denli yo\u011fun n\u00fcfusa ra\u011fmen asla sokakta T\u00fcrk\u00e7e duymuyorsunuz. Oysa Bat\u0131 Trakya\u2019da pek \u00e7ok Rum bile yar\u0131m yamalak T\u00fcrk\u00e7e biliyor ve sizinle ileti\u015fim kuruyor. Deliorman\u2019\u0131n kalbinden ge\u00e7ip g\u00fczel T\u00fcrk k\u00f6ylerinde konaklayarak \u00e7ok keyifli bir yolculuk sonras\u0131 bu kez Silistre\u2019ye ula\u015ft\u0131k. Buras\u0131 da Tuna k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda ve kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131 Romanya. Ye\u015fillikler i\u00e7inde ama orta halli bir \u015fehir buras\u0131 da. Bir iki tarihi eser ziyaret edip bu kez Hac\u0131o\u011flupazarc\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019na y\u00f6neldik. Doksanl\u0131 y\u0131llarda buran\u0131n merkezinde bir eski \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131 ziyaret etmi\u015f ve hayran kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Buram buram T\u00fcrk \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131 \u00f6zelli\u011fi ta\u015f\u0131yan bu t\u00fcr korunmu\u015f alanlara nedense ilgili y\u00f6netimler asla T\u00fcrk ismini yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131rm\u0131yorlar. En makul isimler eski \u015fehir, \u00e7o\u011fu kez de Yahudi mahallesi ya da Ermeni mahallesi olarak ziyaret ediliyorlar. Hac\u0131o\u011flupazarc\u0131k\u2019taki f\u0131r\u0131nl\u0131, d\u00fckanl\u0131, ayakkab\u0131 tamircili, berberli eski \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131y\u0131 da g\u00fczel mimari e\u015fli\u011finde ziyaret ettik. Bu rotay\u0131 \u00f6zellikle \u015funun i\u00e7in naklettim; \u0130stanbul\u2019dan yola \u00e7\u0131kacak olursan\u0131z iki \u00fc\u00e7 saat sonra Demirk\u00f6y\u2019de yani Bulgaristan s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndas\u0131n\u0131z. Bir saat sonra da Burgaz\u2019da. Size iki g\u00fcn i\u00e7inde uygun fiyatlarla keyifli bir Deliorman turu teklif ediyorum. B\u00f6ylece hem Karadeniz\u2019i bir de bat\u0131 ucundan g\u00f6recek, onun daha sakin halini seyredecek, hem de Deliorman\u2019\u0131n T\u00fcrk k\u00f6ylerinde bizim insanlar\u0131m\u0131zla sohbet ederek g\u00fczel bir co\u011frafyay\u0131 dola\u015fma, Tuna\u2019y\u0131 seyretme, pek \u00e7o\u011fu yerel mutfa\u011f\u0131m\u0131zla ayn\u0131 damak tad\u0131n\u0131, hatta isimlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan yemeklerini tatma imkan\u0131 elde edeceksiniz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Benden s\u00f6ylemesi\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mustafa \u0130sen \/ Yazar &#8211; <strong><em>mustafaisen@yahoo.com<\/em><\/strong><br>A\u00e7\u0131kg\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f &#8211; Star<\/p>\n<div id=\"bghab-3588533588\" class=\"bghab-yazi-altinda bghab-entity-placement\"><div class=\"bghab-adlabel\">Reklamlar<\/div><script async src=\"https:\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\r\n<!-- bghaber-yaz\u0131-sonu -->\r\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\r\n     style=\"display:block\"\r\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-6203283170189293\"\r\n     data-ad-slot=\"4222328180\"\r\n     data-ad-format=\"auto\"\r\n     data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins>\r\n<script>\r\n     (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\r\n<\/script><\/div><br style=\"clear: both; display: block; float: none;\"\/>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u0130stanbul&#8217;dan yola \u00e7\u0131kacak olursan\u0131z iki \u00fc\u00e7 saat sonra Demirk\u00f6y&#8217;de yani Bulgaristan s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndas\u0131n\u0131z. Bir saat sonra da Burgaz&#8217;da. Size iki g\u00fcn i\u00e7inde uygun fiyatlarla keyifli bir<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":29,"featured_media":47909,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"advanced_seo_description":"","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[240,1776,61,73],"class_list":["post-47906","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-yorum","tag-deliorman","tag-gezi","tag-ruscuk","tag-sumnu"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/bir-deliorman-masali-522_2.jpg?fit=1244%2C700&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[],"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pc2PfJ-csG","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/47906","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/29"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=47906"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/47906\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/47909"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=47906"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=47906"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bghaber.org\/bghaber\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=47906"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}