Balkan muhacirleri i\u00e7in 1877-78, 1912, 1950\u2019ler ve 1989 y\u0131llar\u0131 ayr\u0131 bir anlam ta\u015f\u0131r. Onlar i\u00e7in, bu tarihler 150 y\u0131ll\u0131k bir s\u00fcrece yay\u0131lan anavatana geri d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn milatlar\u0131d\u0131r. Bu y\u00fczdendir ki pek \u00e7ok T\u00fcrk i\u00e7in T\u00fcrkiye anavatansa, Balkanlar da ata topra\u011f\u0131d\u0131r. K\u00f6klerini merak edenler i\u00e7in Balkanlar\u2019a\u00a0seyahat\u00a0ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131lmazd\u0131r. Ben de aile b\u00fcy\u00fcklerimden duydu\u011fum kadar\u0131yla, soyad\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Sofyal\u0131 B\u00e2li Efendi veya B\u00e2li Baba-i Sofyevi\u2019nin t\u00fcrbesini bulmay\u0131 akl\u0131ma koymu\u015ftum. S\u0131cak bir yaz g\u00fcn\u00fc, B\u00e2li Baba\u2019n\u0131n t\u00fcrbesini bulmak \u00fczere\u00a0Sofya\u2019ya geldim. B\u00e2li Baba, Sofya\u2019n\u0131n g\u00fcneyindeki Vitosha Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n eteklerinde, \u015fehre ara\u00e7la 20 dakika mesafedeki Knyajevo semtinde yat\u0131yordu. Buras\u0131 neredeyse Sofya\u2019n\u0131n sonuydu. Sofya\u2019n\u0131n merkezindeki Sveta Nedelya Meydan\u0131\u2019ndan kalkan 5 numaral\u0131 tramvayla son dura\u011fa kadar gitmek gerek. Laf aram\u0131zda, ben Sofya\u2019da tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m bir T\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn arac\u0131yla gittim…<\/p>\n
B\u00e2li Baba\u2019dan da bahsedeyim: Halveti \u015feyhi, mutasavv\u0131f ve \u015fair olan B\u00e2li Baba-i Sofyevi, 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n sonlar\u0131nda, \u015fimdi Makedonya\u2019da bulunan Ustrumca kentinde do\u011fmu\u015f, bu y\u00f6rede b\u00fcy\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f ve daha sonralar\u0131 Sofya\u2019ya gelip yerle\u015fmi\u015f. Kanuni Sultan S\u00fcleyman ile baz\u0131 seferlere kat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Tasavvufa dair eserler kaleme alm\u0131\u015f. B\u00e2li Baba 1551 y\u0131l\u0131nda vefat etmi\u015f ve \u015fimdi Knyajevo olan, o zamanki ismiyle Selaniye\u2019de topra\u011fa verilmi\u015f. Sofyal\u0131 B\u00e2li Baba\u2019n\u0131n t\u00fcrbesi Sveti Prorok Iliya Kilisesi\u2019nin bah\u00e7esindeydi. T\u00fcrbenin duvar\u0131ndaki B\u00e2li Efendi\u2019nin \u00f6l\u00fcm tarihinin Bulgarca ve T\u00fcrk\u00e7e yaz\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 plaka do\u011fru yerde oldu\u011fumuzun kan\u0131t\u0131yd\u0131. Ta\u015f t\u00fcrbe birka\u00e7 y\u0131l \u00f6nce restore edilmi\u015f, demir parmakl\u0131klar tak\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Kap\u0131s\u0131 kilitli oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in t\u00fcrbenin i\u00e7ine giremedik. Pencereden i\u00e7eriye g\u00f6z att\u0131\u011f\u0131mda B\u00e2li Efendi\u2019nin g\u00fcllerle s\u00fcsl\u00fc sandukas\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. Burada bulunmak ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok ilgin\u00e7 ve etkileyiciydi. Y\u0131llar \u00f6ncesinde ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f bir ki\u015fiyle mek\u00e2n\u0131n ve zaman\u0131n \u00f6tesine ge\u00e7en bir bulu\u015fma… T\u00fcrbe ziyaretinin ard\u0131ndan kiliseye de g\u00f6z att\u0131k. Sivri kuleli yakla\u015f\u0131k y\u00fcz y\u0131ll\u0131k kilisenin i\u00e7inde Alexander Nevski Katedrali\u2019nin in\u015faat\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan ressamlara ait duvar resimleri vard\u0131. Kilisenin papaz\u0131, rivayete g\u00f6re B\u00e2li Baba\u2019n\u0131n 1500\u2019l\u00fc y\u0131llarda burada kad\u0131 oldu\u011funu, bu araziyi ise Bulgar halk\u0131na kilise yap\u0131lmas\u0131 i\u00e7in ba\u011f\u0131\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi.<\/p>\n
En iyisi y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek gezmek<\/strong><\/p>\n Sofya seyahatim B\u00e2li Baba\u2019n\u0131n t\u00fcrbesini ziyaret etmekle s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 de\u011fildi. \u00dc\u00e7 bin y\u0131ll\u0131k ge\u00e7mi\u015fe sahip, Do\u011fu Roma ve Bulgar \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun \u00f6nemli bir merkezi olmu\u015f, 500 y\u0131ldan uzun Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun h\u00e2kimiyetinde kalm\u0131\u015f Sofya\u2019da g\u00f6r\u00fclecek \u00e7ok yer var. Sofya d\u00fcz bir \u015fehir ve g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011fer mek\u00e2nlar birbirine uzak olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in en iyisi y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek gezmek. \u015eehrin merkezindeki Nevazimost Meydan\u0131, \u015fehir turuna ba\u015flamak i\u00e7in iyi noktalardan. Meydanda, 24 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l parlayan Aziz Sofya Heykeli var. Biraz daha ilerideki Nedelya Meydan\u0131\u2019nda, meydana ad\u0131n\u0131 veren Sveta Nedelya Katedrali var. Bu iki meydan\u0131 heybetli Ba\u015fkanl\u0131k Saray\u0131 ba\u011fl\u0131yor ve binan\u0131n ortas\u0131ndaki avluda antik Sofya \u015fehrinin kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 ve Aziz George Rotundas\u0131 (Rotonda Sveti Georgi) bulunuyor.<\/p>\n Ba\u015fkanl\u0131k Saray\u0131\u2019n\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda \u015fimdi Arkeoloji M\u00fczesi olan B\u00fcy\u00fck Cami var. Zaman\u0131nda Sofya\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck camisi olan yap\u0131, 1899\u2019da \u00fclkenin ilk m\u00fczesine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Art\u0131k minareleri olmayan caminin i\u00e7erisinde, azametini daha iyi hissedebilirsiniz. M\u00fczede, Bulgaristan\u2019daki kaz\u0131lardan \u00e7\u0131kan eserler var.<\/p>